Instead of cruising bars for strangers, they can now hook up online and arrange to meet in a love hotel or apartment. He cites the closure of the famous gay magazine Barazoku after 33 years as a key moment. On a Saturday night, though, the decline is not immediately obvious. Crowds and taxis throng through Ni-chome's streets, and clubs and bars fill up after 11pm.
But many businesses are clearly struggling. In Sazae, a retro-themed disco for cross-dressers, men trickle in, wearing suits and civvies, change into dresses and don wigs in the toilet, then dance and pair off. Like many of these bars, the master — a middle-aged queen with a passion for s soul and funk — sets the atmosphere and discreetly regulates the clientele. Fittingly, perhaps, as he shouts over the noise of the disco, Gloria Gaynor's great gay anthem "I Will Survive" comes pounding out of the speakers.
Ni-chome partly mirrors the changes in Japan's gay culture. Until the s, says the year-old Otsuka, the area — 10 minutes walk from Tokyo's busiest transportation hub — was an escape for men who were often married and hiding their sexuality. The idea that gay people could share a life together was a fairy-tale. Though blighted by the typical agonies of personal identity and need for secrecy, gays and lesbians in Japan nevertheless did not suffer the same outright repression as those in other parts of the world.
Cultural Myths and Social Realities. While British cops were still busting men in public parks, Japan didn't even have an anti-sodomy law, nor what McLelland calls the "anti-homosexual rage" of many Christian cultures, the lethal fuel for homophobia and the "hyper-violence" of gay-bashing incidents. As Otsuka puts it: But if Japan was more laid-back about its sexual preferences, it also lacked the political and social frisson that helped transform the lives of homosexuals elsewhere. Gayness was, and is still, largely seen as a personal lifestyle choice, not something to be flaunted or argued over on the streets and in parliament.
Otsuka says he sometimes looked with envy at the battles for gay equality in other parts of the world. He began writing about what was happening abroad and set up his bar to lead by example. I was in a long-term relationship and I wanted to show others it was possible, if they had courage. When my partner died of Aids [about 10 years ago], there was a lot of ignorance about the disease, so I spoke about that too, though it was very hard for me. Today, men in Ni-chome are far more likely to use their real names and announce their same-sex relationships to the world — or at least to the clientele of their favourite club.
But progress has been tortuously slow, and many gays and lesbians are still living a lie, says David Wagner, a business consultant and year veteran of the Ni-chome district.
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Homosexuals are still not legally recognised in Japanese civil law, civil unions are prohibited and there is, as yet, not a single openly gay law-maker or prominent business person, admits Kanako Otsuji. A lesbian activist, in she ran as the country's first openly gay candidate in a national election, after publishing her biography Coming Out.
You don't touch it. But this is still not a bad place to be homosexual. Indeed, young gays hopping from club to bar around Ni-chome find bewildering Otsuji's struggles to change society, or force it to acknowledge their sexuality; one reason, perhaps, why she came near the bottom of the poll. Many have never heard of her or the landmark New York Stonewall riots, or taken part in the Tokyo Pride parade, which limps into action some years and other years doesn't happen at all.
But many accept that their lives have been transformed since the last generation of gay corporate samurai fled here from tormented lives. I couldn't imagine that here, especially not in this area. That's why I come here, even though I can meet people on the internet — I feel comfortable. Few seem worried or even aware that Ni-chome may be dying. But among many proprietors, the talk is of little else. Some speculate that Tokyo's famously right-wing governor Shintaro Ishihara, irritated by the area's reputation for sexual freedom and occasional debauchery, may have a hand in its decline, but there is no proof of that.
If it is, nobody has told the clientele of the 24 Kaikan, which will surely be here long after the last bar shuts its doors. At nearly midnight on a Saturday and the building is three-quarters full. Cars outside bear licence places from several prefectures. Foreign and Japanese men in towels wander the corridors, discreetly eyeing every new customer. Nobody is chewing gum.
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