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We have parties and social activities among ourselves. We rarely hear about gay bashing. Live and let live is their attitude which makes it easier for us to be expressive in our own way—and will allow Rainka to survive. Riva observed this was one of the ways that gays can best proceed, by working at the grass roots level and letting other people know who they are, one neighbor, one person, one neighborhood at a time doing good work such as health education and helping with local projects.

Mathies, Ben and Riva were clear that as Rainka came into being that it would include women as well as men. Coincidentally, as we talked in Lusaka an important meeting of lesbians—the Coalition of African Lesbians—was taking place in Maputo, Mozambique. See Mozambique News Reports. Dressed in a colorful African headband and pants she offered a broad smile and strong assertive eyes.

With a history of advocacy work in South Africa she helped form and support Legatra in until it collapsed. Now she feels more solid and confident that Rainka will serve a valid cause and will survive the challenges. We will have real data after the CDC research study that will give a reason to exist and provide work to do. HIV is not going away soon so our work will be here for a long time. We very much need each other on this matter. We want funding so we can be more available, to open our own clinics across the country where trusted staff can help those hiding or afraid or ignorant.

The key is education, first in Lusaka then across the country.

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A realist like the others, BMJ knows that Rainka will not be allowed to register with the government as long as it directly deals with MSM. But this is now and the small breezes of change are softly blowing. The text if the book is available on line. The main reason for Zambia as a tourist destination is the phenomenon of Victoria Falls. This gigantic force of nature is stunning to behold and humbling to be near—on foot or in a helicopter—as billions of liters spill over the foot cliff every minute into the rocky gorge below spewing mist hundreds of feet into the air.

Nearby is the modest growing town of Livingstone, just across the Falls from Zimbabwe. I was referred to a gay man living and working here. Henry is a 37 yo Zambian currently employed by a government bureau. Originally from Lusaka he wanted to come to Livingstone to put distance between himself and a disappointing relationship as well as a change of pace from the brash and crowded big city scene.

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This does not displease him as he feels self-contained and likes his time at work and at leisure. But he is feeling the distance from his family and friends back in Lusaka. He is reserved, calm and easy moving in his own skin. The moments I feel awkward are at family gatherings where everyone is married with kids and I am not. Even if I bring a boyfriend no one knows he is my partner, just a friend, so I still feel out of place.

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